The lid for the Dutch tool chest is glued up and draw-bored. This was my first attempt at breadboard ends and I really enjoyed doing it and am happy with the results (minus the wrong measurement of one of the rows of pins, but c’est la vie). In case you are wondering, the 30° slant on the ends of the lid is there because I decided to keep the back edge of the lid parallel to the back of the chest; sizing the end pieces prior to assembling the lid will reduce the end-grain work I need to do and provide a nice reference for planing the slant on the rest of the lid. #DutchToolChest #ToolChest #HandToolsOnly #Poplar #Woodworking
I put a roundover and fillet on the front and side edges of the lid of the Dutch tool chest. I do not owned any moulding planes so I had to stick to something I could do with rabbet and block planes. I started by planing a 3/16” deep, 7/8” wide rabbet around the edges and then I played around with French curves to choose something I liked. I marked the curve on the edges and traced lines all around to mark the beginning and end of the curve as well as the beginning and end of a tangent line to the curve; I also scribbled a lot of pencil strokes across those lines to help me track my progress once I got planing. I started by planing a flat bevel on the front edge using a block plane, down to the endpoints of my tangent line; I chose to start with the front edge because it exposes some end grain, so I would have a chance to fix any spelching once I moved on to the side edges (actually I pre-planed the last half-inch of the front edge, so I did not get any spelching). Then I planed down to the curve and after that I did the same for the side edges. Finally I smoothed everything with a sanding block with 220-grit paper. #DutchToolChest #ToolChest #HandToolsOnly #Poplar #Woodworking
